Boxcars Socks

I adore Norah Gaughan and her use of hexagons. I'd like to think she'd appreciate these socks. They are constructed not from the cuff down, nor from the toe up, but from the center out. After the hexagon is knitted, stitches are cast on at the heel and worked down to the toe. Then stitches are picked back up at the heel and worked up the leg.

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Materials:
Lion Brand Sock-Ease [75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 438yds/401m per 3.5oz/100g skein]: color: #205 Cotton Candy; one skein
Set of US#1/2.25mm double-pointed needles, or long circular needle
Set of US#0/2.00mm double-pointed needles, or long circular needle
Small crochet hook
Waste yarn
Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

Foot circumference = 8in/20cm

Foot length = adjustable

Gauge:

32 sts/44 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Camisa del Sol

We recently had a warm front come through Texas, bringing the temperature up to the mid-80s (about 30 degrees Celsius)... in March! This, of course, made me think of how dreadfully hot it will be in August. So I thought I'd get a jump on my summer wardrobe with a cute cotton top. It may be a little later in the year before you can wear this in your neighborhood, but that just gives you time to knit leisurely. Some basic sewing skills are required, but don't be frightened - it's not too bad.

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Materials:

Omega Sinfonia [100% mercerized cotton; 218yds/200m per 3.5oz/100g skein]; 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins in color of your choice

[Sample A was knit with #828 Lila; Sample B was knit with #832 Turquesa]

US #4/3.5mm 24-in/60-cm circular needle
Five stitch markers

Tapestry needle
About 1yd/1m of cotton print fabric
Elastic, long enough to go around your ribcage, just under your boobs
[I used elastic 1-inch wide, but if you have some 1/2-inch on hand, feel free to use it.]

Finished Measurements:

Under-Bust: 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44)in/76 (81, 86, 91, 97, 102, 107, 112) cm
Cup Size: A {B, C, D, DD} cup sizes, where the difference between bust and under-bust measurements is 1 {2, 3, 4, 5}in/2.5 {5, 7.5, 10, 12.5}cm
Length: Custom

Gauge:

20 sts/28 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch, slightly stretched

Click here for Abbreviations

Pattern:
CO 150 (160, 170, 180, 190, 200, 210, 220) sts using backwards loop, or single cast-on, method. Join to work in round, being careful not to twist your stitches.
Rnds 1, 3, 5: Purl.
Rnds 2, 4: Knit.
Rnd 6: pm for beg of rnd/left underarm, k19 (20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28), pm for first set of bust increases, k19 (20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27), pm for center front, k19 (20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27), pm for second set of bust increases, k19 (20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28), pm for right underarm, k to end.
Rnd 7: [k to 1 st before bust marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L] twice, k to end.
Rnds 8, 9: Knit.
Repeat last 3 rnds 1 {2, 3, 4, 5} more times for a cup size of A {B, C, D, DD}.

Short-Row Bust Darts (optional):
Note: If you choose not to do the bust darts, you may still want to knit even for 4 {6, 8, 10, 12} rnds for a cup size of A {B, C, D, DD} in order to get about the same amount of coverage in front.
Row 1: k to 2 sts after second bust marker, w&t.
Row 2: p to 2 sts after other bust marker, w&t.
Row 3: k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with wrapped stitch (insert right needle up through wrap, then through st and knit both tog), k2, w&t.
Row 4: p to wrapped st, p wrap tog with wrapped stitch (insert right needle up through wrap from the back side of work, then through st and purl both tog), p2, w&t.
Repeat last 2 rows 0 {1, 2, 3, 4} more times for a cup size of A {B, C, D, DD}.
Next rnd: k to wrapped st, k wrap tog with wrapped stitch, k to end of rnd, do not turn.
Next rnd: repeat previous rnd to incorporate final wrap.

Begin Edging:
Rnd 1: k1, m1Lp, ssk, k to 3 sts before center marker, k2tog, m1Rp, k1, sm, k1, m1Lp, ssk, k to 3 sts before side marker, k2tog, m1Rp, k1, sm, p to end.
Rnd 2: k1, m1L, p1, ssk, k to 4 sts before center marker, k2tog, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, p1, ssk, k to 4 sts before side marker, k2tog, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k to end.
Rnd 3: k1, m1Lp, k1, p1, ssk, k to 5 sts before center marker, k2tog, p1, k1, m1Rp, k1, sm, k1, m1Lp, k1, p1, ssk, k to 5 sts before side marker, k2tog, p1, k1, m1Rp, k1, sm, p to end.
Rnd 4: k1, m1L, p1, k1, p1, ssk, k to 6 sts before center marker, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, p1, k1, p1, ssk, k to 6 sts before side marker, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k to end.
Rnd 5: k1, m1Lp, , [k1, p1] twice, ssk, k to 7 sts before center marker, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, m1Rp, k1, sm, k1, m1Lp, [k1, p1] twice, ssk, k to 7 sts before side marker, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, m1Rp, k1, remove marker, BO all back sts as if to purl, remove marker.
Note: You'll still have one st on your right needle from the last BO st.

Left Front:
Row 1: Slip last st from BO back to left needle and k it tog with first st of next row, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k to 8 sts before center marker, k2tog, [p1, k1] 3 times, remove marker, turn.
Row 2: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, p to last 8 sts, ssp, [k1, p1] twice, k2.
Row 3: sl1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, k to last 8 sts, k2tog, [p1, k1] 3 times.
Repeat last 2 rows until 14 or 15 sts remain.
If you have 14 sts and your next row is a RS row: sl1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k2tog, [p1, k1] 3 times.
If you have 14 sts and your next row is a WS row: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, [k1, p1] 3 times.
If you have 15 sts and your next row is a RS row: sl1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, slip this st back to left needle, pass next st over, return to right needle, [p1, k1] 3 times.
If you have 15 sts and your next row is a WS row: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, sl1, ssp, pass slipped st over, [k1, p1] 3 times.
Continue in k1, p1 ribbing for roughly 12-18in/30-45cm. Since this is so closely fitted, you really need to try it on when you think you're getting close and make sure your straps are the right length. BO all sts.

Right Front:
With RS facing, join yarn at center front. Work as for Left Front except for the last decrease row:
If you have 14 sts and your next row is a RS row: sl1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, [p1, k1] 3 times.
If you have 14 sts and your next row is a WS row: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, ssp, [k1, p1] 3 times.
If you have 15 sts and your next row is a RS row: sl1, [p1, k1] twice, p1, sk2p, [p1, k1] 3 times.
If you have 15 sts and your next row is a WS row: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2tog, slip this st back to left needle, pass next st over, return to right needle, [k1, p1] 3 times.

Finishing:
Sew straps to top of back band roughly a quarter of the way in from each underarm. Weave in ends.

Sewing:
Measure around your hips, and add 1in/2.5cm. Also measure from just under your bust to however long you want your top, and add 3in/8cm. Cut a peice of fabric that size. Depending on your hip size and the width of your fabric, you may need to cut two pieces, each half you hip size plus 1in/2.54cm.
Fold fabric in half with right sides together and sew side seam(s) to form a tube.
Fold bottom edge over and sew hem.
Wrap elastic around your ribcage, just under your boobs and pull snug, but not too tight. Cut elastic to that length.
Fold top of fabric down to form elastic casing and sew almost all the way around, leaving a gap to insert elastic.
Feed elastic through casing, and sew end-to-end.
Pin fabric (right-side out) to underside of bottom garter stitch border on knitted piece, and sew all the way around through knitting, fabric and elastic. You'll want to use a zig-zag stitch to make sure it will stretch enough to get over your head and shoulders.
Block knitting and/or iron fabric, if desired.

Other Ideas:
- You could lengthen the fabric portion to make this into a dress/swimsuit cover-up.
- I think this would look really cute if the fabric portion were a patchwork of various prints.

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Ipod Armband

My friend requested an armband to hold her ipod while she works out. This is what I came up with. The yarn's inherent elasticity, coupled with a twisted rib, makes this very stretchy to fit a variety of arm sizes. The pocket was designed to hold a 2nd generation ipod shuffle, but could easily be made bigger or smaller to accommodate your favorite music device.

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Materials:

Patons Katrina [92% rayon, 8% polyester; 163yds/150m per 3.5oz/100g skein]; about 25 yds/23m in color of your choice

[Sample was knit with #10217 Frost]

Set of US #6/4mm double pointed needles or one long circular needle for magic loop method

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

Width: 2.5in/6cm
Circumference: 7in/18cm, unstretched, up to 13in/33cm when fully stretched
Pocket: 1.5in/4cm squared, unstretched

Gauge:

14 sts/16 rows = 2in/5cm in twisted rib, unstretched

Click here for Abbreviations

Pattern:
Band:
CO 50 sts using long-tail tubular cast-on (or any stretchy cast-on you like).
Join and work k1 tbl, p1 ribbing for 20 rounds (after foundation rows if you used the tubular CO).
BO all sts using tubular bind-off (or stretchy bind-off method of your choice).

Pocket:
CO 10 sts with tubular cast-on. Work foundation rows.
Next RS Row: sl1, [k1 tbl, p1] 4 times, k1.
Next WS Row: sl 1, [k1, p1 tbl] 4 times, k1.
Repeat these two rows 4 more times. BO using tubular bind-off, leaving a long tail.

With BO tail, sew pocket onto band along three sides. Weave in ends. Go rock out on the treadmill.

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Heelhead Scarf

While brain-storming ways to add a hood to a scarf, I had an epiphany. Why not use short-rows to make the scarf flare out for the hood and then narrow again afterward? Like the heel of a sock, but for your head. Brilliant! It shall be done.

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Materials:

Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted [20% wool, 80% acrylic; 197yds/180m per 3oz/85g skein]; three skeins in color of your choice

[Sample was knit with three skeins of 107 Blue Heather]

Pair of US #9/5.5mm straight needles or one circular needle

Two stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

Scarf Length = 45in/114cm

Scarf Width = 4in/10cm
Hood Width = 13in/33cm at widest point, 6in/15cm at top

Gauge:

17 sts/24 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch

Click here for Abbreviations

Special Abbreviations:
s2sk = sl2 tog as if to knit, sl1 as if to knit, k3tog tbl = insert right needle into next 2 stitches as if to knit them together, but just slip them to right needle, insert right needle into next stitch as if to knit, but just slip it to right needle, insert left needle from left to right through all three stitches and knit all together through back loop
m1L = make 1 left-leaning = insert left needle from front to back under bar between next two stitches and knit it through back loop
m1R = make 1 right-leaning = insert left needle from back to front under bar between next two stitches and knit it
m1Lp = make 1 left-leaning = insert left needle from front to back under bar between next two stitches and purl it through back loop
m1Rp = make 1 right-leaning = insert left needle from back to front under bar between next two stitches and purl it

Pattern:
First Tail:
CO 23 sts.
Rows 1-5, 7, 9: sl1, p21, k1.
Rows 6, 8: sl1, p4, k4, p5, k4, p4, k1.
Row 10: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, BC4, p4, k1.
Repeat Rows 5-10 49 more times, or until scarf reaches from shoulder to desired length. Repeat Rows 5-7 once more.

Increase Rows:
Row 1: sl1, p4, k4, m1Lp, p5, m1Rp, k4, p4, k1 - 25 sts.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 3: sl1, p4, FC4, m1Lp, p7, m1Rp, BC4, p4, k1 - 27 sts.
Row 5: sl1, p4, k4, m1Lp, p4, pm, k1, pm, p4, m1Rp, k4, p4, k1 - 29 sts.
Rows 7, 11: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, m1L, k to next marker, m1R, sm, p5, k4, p4, k1 - 2 sts inc'd each time.
Row 9: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, sm, m1L, k to next marker, m1R, sm, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 2 sts inc'd each time.
Repeat Rows 7-12 until there are 75 sts total, ending after Row 10.

Decreasing Short-Rows:
Row 1: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, k46, turn.
Row 2: yo-b, p45, turn.
Row 3: yo, k44, turn.
Row 4: yo-b, p43, turn.
Row 5: yo, k42, turn.
Row 6: yo-b, p41, turn.
Row 7: yo, k40, turn.
Row 8: yo-b, p39, turn.
Continue in this manner, knitting/purling one fewer st each row, until...
Row 21: yo, k26, turn.
Row 22: yo-b, p25, turn.

Increasing Short-Rows:
Row 1: yo, k25, am, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: yo-b, p26, ssp, turn.
Row 3: yo, k27, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 4: yo-b, p28, sssp, turn.
Row 5: yo, k29, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 6: yo-b, p30, sssp, turn.
Row 7: yo, k31, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 8: yo-b, p32, sssp, turn.
Continue in this manner, knitting/purling one more st each row, until...
Row 21: yo, k45, am2, k3tog, turn.
Row 22: yo-b, p46, sssp, turn.
Row 23: yo, k47, am, p2tog, (remove marker & replace before p2tog), p4, k4, p4. k1.
Row 24: sl1, p to 1 st before second marker, ssp (remove marker & replace before ssp), p to last st, k1.
You should now have only 75 sts again.

Decrease Rows:
Row 1, 5: sl1, p4, k4, p5, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, sm, p5, k4, p4, k1 - 2 sts dec'd each time.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 3: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, sm, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 2 sts dec'd each time.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until there are 31 sts remaining, ending after Row 2.
Row 45: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, remove marker, s2sk, p5, BC4, p4, k1 - 29 sts.
Even Rows, 46-52: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 47:sl1, p4, k4, p2tog, p7, ssp, k4, p4, k1 - 27 sts.
Row 49: sl1, p4, k4, p2tog, p5, ssp, k4, p4, k1 - 25 sts.
Row 51: sl1, p4, FC4, p2tog, p3, ssp, BC4, p4, k1 - 23 sts.

Second Tail:
Rows 1, 3: sl1, p4, k4, p5, k4, p4, k1.
Even Rows: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Row 5: sl1, p4, FC4, p5, BC4, p4, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 49 more times, or until scarf reaches same length as first tail.
Repeat Rows 1-2 once more.
Repeat Row 2 three more times.
BO all sts and cut yarn. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

Modification Ideas:
- Add fringe
- Exchange the simple cable for a more intricate design
- For a pointy-er hood, work more short-rows; for a less pointy hood, work fewer short-rows
- Add a pom-pom on the top of the hood
- Make the tails shorter, tie them together, turn it upside down and you've got a shoulder bag

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Riptide Socks

These socks are knitted from the toe up and feature short-row heels and a twisted-stitch pattern that swells and recedes like the tides. Plus, the twisted stitches give the socks extra stretchiness!

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Materials:

Louet Gems Fingering Weight [100% wool; 185yds/169m per 1.76oz/50g skein]; two skeins in color of your choice

[Sample was knit with two skeins of Caribbean Blue]

Set of US #2/2.75mm double-pointed needles

Set of US #1/2.25mm double-pointed needles

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

Foot circumference = 8in/20cm, relaxed

Foot length = approximately 10in/25cm, but can be adjusted by working more or less of
chart before beginning heel

Gauge:

30 sts/40 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Starbucks Coffee Cozy

I'm a barista at Starbucks. I showed my manager my POISON! Coffee Cozy, and she loved it. In fact, she commissioned me to make one for her sister, only she wanted it to look like the cardboard sleeve that Starbucks puts on their hot drinks. And thus, this pattern was born.

The logo is done using intarsia. I wish I'd found a better green, but at my LYS, I had a choice between this and lime green. I split a length of black yarn into its plies and used one ply to embroider the check boxes on the back. Then I used two plies together to add a "3" in the shots blank and an "A" in the drink blank to signify a Triple Tall Caffe Americano, Robyn's sister's favorite drink. They got obscured a bit during felting, but you get the gist. Feel free to customize it with your own drink of choice.

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Materials:
Cascade 220 Wool (100% Peruvian Highland Wool, 3.5oz/100g, 220yds/201m); 1 skein each in 8555 Black and 8894 Green
Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland Wool, 3.5oz/100g, 220yds/201m); 1 skein in 2442 Beige (and I used a skein of 9447 Forest Green in lieu of the better green I wanted)
[Note: You'll probably only need about 50 yards of the Beige and even less of the Green and Black, so if you've got leftovers from another project, feel free to use them up]
US 8 (5mm) needles
Tapestry Needle

Gauge:
18sts by 24rows= 4in (10cm) in stst, pre-felting
20sts by 27rows= 4in (10cm) in stst, post-felting

Finished Size:
3.5in (8.5cm) tall by 10in (25cm) around, pre-felting
3in (7.5cm) tall by 9in (23cm) around, post-felting

Click here for Abbreviations

Pattern:
With Beige, CO 48 sts.
Rows 1, 2, 4: sl1, k to end.
Rows 3, 5: sl1, p to last st, k1.
Rows 6-18: Work colorwork according to chart. Slip first st of every row and knit last st of every row.
Rows, 19, 21, 23: With Beige, sl1, p to last st, k1.
Rows 20, 22: With Beige, sl1, k to end.
BO purlwise on RS with Beige. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to seam later.

Cut a strand of Black yarn, about a yard long, and separate one ply. Use it and a tapestry needle to embroider check boxes. Separate two more plies, and use them to embroider drink code. Ask your friendly local barista if you need help with the code. Use BO tail to sew rectangle into a tube. Weave in ends.




Handwash in hot water with a little dish soap and agitation until it felts to appropriate size. Rinse thoroughly. Blot with towel to absorb excess moisture. Stretch over a glass or plastic cup. Allow to dry completely before use. Go to your local Starbucks and show off your new creation.

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Raudona Socks

These lovely socks are knitted from the toe up and feature a deceptively easy lace pattern and short-row heels.

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Buy/Queue on Ravelry!

Materials:
Lang Jawoll Superwash [75% wool/18% nylon/7% acrylic; 208yds/190m per 1.75oz/50g skein]; two skeins in color of your choice
[Sample was knit with two skeins of color #8301 White, dyed with cherry Kool-Aid]
Set of US #2/2.75mm double-pointed needles
Set of US #1/2.25mm double-pointed needles
Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:
Foot circumference = 8in/20cm, relaxed
Foot length = custom

Gauge:
32 sts/43 rows = 4in/10cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Chromosome Cap

Here's another geeky knit from yours truly - cables that look like chromosomes! Display your dorkdom with pride.

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Materials:
Plymouth Encore Worsted [75% acrylic/25% wool; 200yds/183m per 3.5oz/100g skein]; color: #256; one skein
US #8/5mm 16-inch circular needle
Set of US #8/5mm double-pointed needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
20 sts x 40 rnds = 4in (10cm) in garter stitch, relaxed
Note: When working in the round, alternate knit rounds and purl rounds to create garter stitch.

Finished Size:
Child (Adult Small, Adult Large) = 19 (21, 23)in [48 (53, 58)cm] head circumference
[Shown in Adult Large]

Click here for Abbreviations

Special Abbreviations:
BC3 = slip 1 to cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 2 from left needle, purl 1 from cable needle
FC3 = slip 2 to cable needle and hold in front of work, purl 1 from left needle, knit 2 from cable needle
wrap4 = with yarn in back of work, slip next 4 stitches to cable needle, (bring yarn to front between cable needle and left needle, bring yarn to back between cable needle and right needle) twice, slip 4 wrapped stitches to right needle without knitting them

Pattern:
CO 80 (90, 100) sts on circular needle. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist.
Rounds 1, 3, 5, 7: purl.
Round 2 and all even rnds: knit.
Round 9, 11: *[p2, k2] twice, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 13: *p2, FC3, BC3, p2 (3, 4), k2, p2, k2, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 15: *p3, wrap4, p3 (4, 5), k2, p2, k2, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 17: *p2, BC3, FC3, p2 (3, 4), k2, p2, k2, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 19: *[p2, k2] twice, p2 (3, 4), FC3, BC3, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 21: *[p2, k2] twice, p3 (4, 5), wrap4, p1 (2, 3)*; rep between *s around.
Round 23: *[p2, k2] twice, p2 (3, 4), BC3, FC3, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Round 25: *[p2, k2] twice, p0 (1, 2)*; rep between *s around.
Cont in garter st for 6 (12, 14) rnds, ending with a purl rnd.

Child Size Only:
Dec Round: *k38, k2tog*; rep between *s around - 78 sts. Purl 1 rnd even.

Large Adult Size Only:
Dec Round: *k23, k2tog*; rep between *s around - 96 sts. Purl 1 rnd even.

Crown Shaping (All Sizes):
Switch to dpns when necessary. Cont to purl every other rnd even.
Round 1: *k11 (13, 14), k2tog*; rep between *s around - 72 (84, 90) sts.
Round 3: *k10 (12, 13), k2tog*; rep between *s around - 66 (78, 84) sts.
Round 5: *k9 (11, 12), k2tog*; rep between *s around - 60 (72, 78) sts.
Cont to dec 6 sts every knit rnd in this manner until 36 sts remain.
Purl 1 rnd even. Next round, k2tog around - 18 sts.
Purl 1 rnd even. Next round, k2tog around - 9 sts.
Purl 1 rnd even.

Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Using tapestry needle, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight, and tie off. Weave in ends.

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Snowflake Hat

This continues my tradition of knitting matching hats for all the children in my family (current count: 4) each winter. First, there were pointy Christmas tree hats with i-cord garland and button ornaments. The next year, it was snowman caps, plain white with carrot-shaped noses and button eyes and mini toboggan hats on top. This year, I decided to go a little less wacky since the kids are getting a little older now.

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Materials:
Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic, 6oz/170g, 330yds/302m) one skein in White
Caron Simply Soft Brites! (100% acrylic, 6oz/170g, 315yds/288m) one skein in Berry Blue
US7 (4.5mm) 16in (41cm) circular needle
US7 (4.5mm) double-pointed needles
Tapestry Needle

Gauge:
21sts x 26rows = 4in (10cm) in stranded stst on US7 (4.5mm)
Note: Your gauge in stranded stst and solid-color stst will be different. It is important to do a gauge swatch using the fair isle pattern.

Finished Size:
Infant 6-12 months (Child, Adult S, Adult L) = 16 (18.25, 20.5, 22.75)in [41 (46, 52, 58)cm] head circumference, unstretched
[Shown in Infant Size]

Click here for Abbreviations

Pattern:
With White and circular needle (dpns for Infant size), CO 84 (96, 108, 120) sts.
Join, being careful not to twist.
Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 (5, 5, 6) rnds.
Join Blue, and begin working corresponding chart.
Switch to dpns when necessary.
When only 12 sts remain, cut yarn and thread tail through remaining loops using tapestry needle. Pull tight and tie off. Weave in ends.




































Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.

Pink Ribbon Hat

In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, I've created this lovely cap with six cabled pink ribbons, separated by mini cables that work their way all the way up to the crown and join in the center. This hat could easily be made in a different color to support various causes: red for AIDS/HIV, yellow for the troops, a variegated rainbow yarn for gay rights, your choice! Here's a list of awareness ribbon colors and their meanings to help you along.

Queue this on Ravelry!

Materials:
200yds (183m) of worsted weight yarn in the color of your choice
US #7/4.5mm 16in (41cm) circular needle
Set of US #7/4.5mm double-pointed needles
One stitch marker
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
20sts by 28rows = 4in (10cm) in stst

Finished Size:
Adult Small (Large) = 21 (23)in [53 (58)cm] in circumference

Click here for Abbreviations

Special Abbreviations:
FC3 = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle, hold in front, purl next st, knit sts from cable needle
BC3 = slip next st onto cable needle, hold in back, knit next 2 sts, purl st from cable needle
m1Lp = make 1 left purlwise - insert left needle from front to back under bar between next 2 sts, and purl this new stitch through the back loop
m1Rp = make 1 right purlwise - insert left needle from back to front under bar between next 2 sts, and purl this new stitch

Pattern:
CO 96 (108) sts on circ. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnds 1, 5, 8: [k2, p14 (16)] 6 times.
Rnds 2, 4, 6: knit.
Rnds 3, 7: [FC2, p14 (16)] 6 times.
Rnds 9-32 can be worked by inserting chart between mini cables (don't forget to twist the mini cables every four rnds) or from the written instructions below.
Rnds 9, 10: [k2, p1 (2), k2, p8, k2, p1 (2)] 6 times.
Rnd 11: [FC2, p1 (2), FC3, p6, BC3, p1 (2)] 6 times.
Rnd 12: [k2, p2 (3), k2, p6, k2, p2 (3)] 6 times.
Rnd 13: [k2, p2 (3), FC3, p4, BC3, p2 (3)] 6 times.
Rnd 14: [k2, p3 (4), k2, p4, k2, p3 (4)] 6 times.
Rnd 15: [FC2, p3 (4), FC3, p2, BC3, p3 (4)] 6 times.
Rnd 16: [k2, p4 (5), k2, p2, k2, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 17: [k2, p4 (5), FC3, BC3, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 18: [k2, p5 (6), k4, p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 19: [FC2, p5 (6), FC4, p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 20: [k2, p5 (6), k4, p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 21: [k2, p4 (5), BC3, FC3, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 22: [k2, p4 (5), k2, p2, k2, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 23: [FC2, p3 (4), BC3, p2, FC3, p3 (4)] 6 times.
Rnds 24, 25, 26: [k2, p3 (4), k2, p4, k2, p3 (4)] 6 times.
Rnd 27: [FC2, p3 (4), FC3, p2, BC3, p3 (4)] 6 times.
Rnd 28: [k2, p4 (5), k2, p2, k2, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 29: [k2, p4 (5), FC3, BC3, p4 (5)] 6 times.
Rnd 30: [k2, p5 (6), k4, p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 31: [FC2, p5 (6), m1Rp, ssk, k2tog, m1Lp, p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 32: [k2, p6 (7), k2tog, m1Lp, p6 (7)] 6 times.

Small Size Only:
Rnd 33: [k2, p14] 5 times, k2, p7, pm to mark new beg of rnds.

Large Size Only:
Rnd 33: [k2, p16] 6 times.
Rnd 34: [k2, p16] 6 times.
Rnd 35: [FC2, p16] 5 times, FC2, p8, pm to mark new beg of rnds.

Crown Shaping:
Switch to dpns.
Rnd 1: [p6 (7), k2tog, k1, p7 (8)] 6 times - 90 (102) sts.
Rnd 2: [p6 (7), FC2 (k2), p7 (8)] 6 times.
Rnd 3: [p6 (7), k1, ssk, p6 (7)] 6 times - 84 (96) sts.
Rnd 4: [p6 (7), k2 (FC2), p6 (7)] 6 times.
Rnd 5: [p5 (6), k2tog, k1, p6 (7)] 6 times - 78 (90) sts.
Rnd 6: [p5 (6), FC2 (k2), p6 (7)] 6 times.
Rnd 7: [p5 (6), k1, ssk, p5 (6)] 6 times - 72 (84) sts.
Rnd 8: [p5 (6), k2 (FC2), p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 9: [p4 (5), k2tog, k1, p5 (6)] 6 times - 66 (78) sts.
Rnd 10: [p4 (5), FC2 (k2), p5 (6)] 6 times.
Rnd 11: [p4 (5), k1, ssk, p4 (5)] 6 times - 60 (72) sts.
Rnd 12: [p4 (5), k2 (FC2), p4 (5)] 6 times.

Large Size Only:
Rnd 13: [p4, k2tog, k1, p5] 6 times - 66 sts.
Rnd 14: [p4, k2, p5] 6 times.
Rnd 15: [p4, k1, ssk, p4] 6 times - 60 sts.
Rnd 16: [p4, FC2, p4] 6 times.

Both Sizes:
Rnd 13 (17): [p3, k2tog, ssk, p3] 6 times - 48 sts.
Rnd 14 (18): [p3, k2, p3] 6 times.
Rnd 15 (19): [p2, k2tog, ssk, p2] 6 times - 36 sts.
Rnd 16 (20): [p2, k2, p2] 6 times.
Rnd 17 (21): [p1, k2tog, ssk, p1] 6 times - 24 sts.
Rnd 18 (22): [p1, k2, p1] 6 times.
Rnd 19 (23): [k2tog, ssk] 6 times - 12 sts.
Rnd 20 (24): ssk 6 times - 6 sts.
Cut yarn and thread through rem loops using tapestry needle. Pull tight and tie off. Weave in ends.

Feel free to comment here with questions.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not try to sell it or any product made from it. Thank you.